Frequently Asked Questions
Question About Buying
It depends on your loan type. Conventional loans can go as low as 3 to 5 percent down for qualified buyers, FHA loans typically require 3.5 percent, and VA loans often require no down payment at all for eligible veterans. The right number depends on your finances and goals, and it’s worth a conversation with a lender early on to see what actually fits your situation.
Pre-qualification is a quick, informal estimate based on information you share with a lender. Pre-approval is a more thorough process where the lender verifies your income, credit, and finances and gives you a specific number you’re approved to borrow. Sellers take pre-approved buyers more seriously, and it’s the right first step before you start seriously looking at homes.
Once you’re under contract, closing typically takes 30 to 45 days, depending on your lender, loan type, and how quickly paperwork comes together. Getting pre-approved early and staying responsive to your lender’s requests are the two biggest things that keep the timeline on track.
Earnest money is a deposit you put down when you make an offer to show the seller you’re serious. It’s typically 1 to 2 percent of the purchase price and gets applied toward your down payment or closing costs at closing. If the deal falls through for a reason covered in your contract’s contingencies, this money is protected and returned to you.
I always recommend one. An inspection gives you a clear picture of the home’s condition, from the roof to the foundation to the mechanical systems, before you’re locked into the purchase. It’s one of the best tools you have to negotiate repairs or price, or to walk away from a property with real problems.
Often, yes. Older homes typically come with larger lot sizes, mature landscaping, and construction quality that can be hard to find in newer builds. New construction offers modern systems and lower initial maintenance, so the right choice comes down to your priorities and budget. I’m happy to walk through the tradeoffs for any specific property you’re considering.
Question About Selling
The most accurate way is a comparative market analysis, which looks at recently sold homes similar to yours in size, condition, and location. Online home value estimators can give you a rough starting point, but they don’t account for updates, condition, or what’s actually happening in your specific neighborhood. I provide a full, no obligation market analysis for anyone considering a sale.
Start with decluttering, deep cleaning, and small repairs, loose fixtures, chipped paint, anything that catches a buyer’s eye for the wrong reason. Fresh neutral paint and clean, simple landscaping consistently offer some of the best return for the effort involved. I walk every seller through a specific prep list tailored to their home before we go live.
This varies with pricing, condition, and local demand, but well prepared, accurately priced homes generally attract offers faster than those that aren’t. I’ll give you a realistic timeline based on current conditions in your specific neighborhood when we meet.
The main costs are the real estate commission, any agreed upon buyer concessions, transfer taxes, and your remaining mortgage payoff. There can also be costs tied to repairs identified during the buyer’s inspection. I go through a full net sheet with every seller early on so there are no surprises at closing.
Not always, but addressing small, visible issues, things like leaky faucets or damaged trim, tends to pay off more than the cost to fix them. Larger repairs are worth discussing case by case, since sometimes a price adjustment makes more sense than the repair itself. I’ll help you decide where your money is best spent.
List price is what a home is marketed at when it goes live. Sale price is what a buyer actually agrees to pay, which can be higher, lower, or the same as the list price depending on demand and how the home is priced going in. Strategic pricing from the start is one of the biggest factors in how a home performs.